24 Hours in Portofino

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There are places that seem designed for photographs, and then there is Portofino. Tucked into a tiny bay on the Ligurian coast, this former fishing village has become one of Italy’s most glamorous seaside escapes, where pastel-coloured houses climb the hillside, wooden boats bob in the harbour and the Mediterranean stretches towards the horizon.

Portofino is small enough to explore on foot in a few hours, but that is precisely what makes spending a full day here so enjoyable. You do not need a packed itinerary. The pleasure is in slowing down: drinking an espresso by the water, wandering along narrow lanes, climbing to a hilltop castle, swimming in a hidden cove and watching the harbour change colour as the afternoon fades into evening.

If you only have 24 hours in Portofino, here is how to make the most of them.

The best time to discover Portofino is early in the morning.

By mid-morning, day-trippers begin arriving from nearby Santa Margherita Ligure and other towns along the Ligurian coast. Before that happens, however, Portofino feels almost impossibly peaceful.

Start your day with a walk around the harbour. The famous waterfront is lined with colourful buildings in shades of pink, yellow, peach and ochre, their shutters contrasting beautifully with the deep blue of the sea.

Take your time here. There is no need to rush towards the next sight. Watch the fishing boats come and go, listen to the clink of café cups and look up at the steep green hills surrounding the village.

Find a table overlooking the water and order an Italian breakfast: a cappuccino, an espresso and a freshly baked cornetto. Breakfast in Portofino is less about the food than the setting.

This is the moment when the village feels most authentic.

After breakfast, explore Portofino on foot.

The centre is tiny, and most of the streets around the harbour can easily be explored in an hour. Wander beyond the waterfront and you will find narrow lanes, small boutiques, art galleries and elegant buildings tucked into the hillside.

Portofino has a reputation for luxury, and there is certainly no shortage of designer shops and expensive yachts. Yet behind the glamorous façade, traces of the old fishing village remain.

Look for details rather than landmarks: brightly painted doors, flower-filled balconies, old boats pulled up along the shore and laundry moving gently in the sea breeze.

One of the pleasures of Portofino is simply getting lost — although getting lost here is difficult. The village is so compact that sooner or later every lane seems to lead back towards the harbour.

Once you have explored the village, it is time to head uphill.

The walk to Castello Brown is one of the highlights of a visit to Portofino. The path climbs through lush Mediterranean vegetation, offering increasingly beautiful views over the village and the bay.

The castle itself sits above Portofino in a remarkably scenic position. Its history stretches back centuries, and today it is one of the best places to appreciate the geography of the area.

But even if you are not particularly interested in castles, the walk is worth doing for the views alone.

From above, Portofino looks almost miniature. The colourful waterfront forms a crescent around the harbour, while luxury yachts and small fishing boats create patterns on the water below.

On a clear day, the view extends along the rugged Ligurian coastline.

Bring water, especially during the warmer months. The walk is not particularly long, but the combination of steps, hills and summer heat can make it more demanding than expected.

From Castello Brown, continue towards the Church of San Giorgio.

The church occupies another spectacular viewpoint overlooking Portofino and the sea. Its simple stone exterior contrasts with the extraordinary panorama surrounding it.

Take a few minutes to sit here and enjoy the silence.

This is one of those places where the landscape does most of the talking.

The Mediterranean appears almost impossibly blue, and the steep green hills make it easy to understand why this corner of Liguria has attracted visitors for generations.

After visiting the church, begin making your way back towards the village.
 

By lunchtime, Portofino will be considerably busier.

This is the perfect excuse to slow down.

Choose a restaurant or café around the harbour and settle in for a long Italian lunch. Ligurian cuisine is closely connected to the sea and to the region's fresh produce, so look for dishes featuring local fish, seafood, vegetables, focaccia or pesto.

Pesto alla Genovese is perhaps the region's most famous culinary export, but eating it here, in Liguria, feels different. It is traditionally made with basil, pine nuts, garlic, Parmesan and olive oil, and is often served with local pasta.

Another essential Ligurian food is focaccia. Try it simply, perhaps with olive oil and sea salt, or with toppings depending on the bakery or restaurant.

Lunch should not be rushed.

Order a glass of local wine, watch the boats in the harbour and allow yourself at least an hour or two. Portofino is not a destination that rewards speed.

After lunch, escape the busiest part of the village.

One of the best ways to experience Portofino is to explore the surrounding coastline. Walking trails lead through the Portofino promontory, passing through Mediterranean vegetation and opening onto dramatic views of the Ligurian Sea.

If you enjoy hiking, consider following one of the trails towards the surrounding villages and viewpoints. The landscape is a beautiful combination of dense green forest, rocky cliffs and sudden glimpses of turquoise water.

If you prefer something easier, simply take a shorter walk and return to Portofino before the heat of the afternoon becomes too intense.

Another option is to explore the coastline by boat.

From the water, Portofino looks completely different. The pastel buildings appear to rise directly from the hillside, while the bay becomes a perfect frame of green, blue and yellow.

A short boat trip is also a wonderful way to appreciate just how dramatic this stretch of coastline really is.

By late afternoon, it is time for a swim.

Portofino itself does not have a large traditional sandy beach, but there are several places around the peninsula where you can get into the sea.

One of the most atmospheric options is to head towards Paraggi, a small bay surrounded by lush vegetation and clear water. Depending on the season and local conditions, it can be an excellent place for an afternoon swim.

Bring your swimming gear and, ideally, water shoes. Much of the Ligurian coastline is rocky rather than sandy, and the Mediterranean is often clearest around rocky coves.

There is something wonderfully simple about swimming here after spending the morning walking through the village.

Float in the water, look back towards the green hills and let the day slow down.

Return to Portofino in the early evening, when the light begins to soften.

This is arguably the most beautiful time of day.

The harsh midday sunlight disappears and the buildings around the harbour take on warmer colours. The water becomes darker, the hills turn golden and the atmosphere changes from busy sightseeing destination to elegant seaside retreat.

Find a table overlooking the harbour and order an aperitivo.

Aperitivo is one of Italy's great rituals: a drink before dinner accompanied by small snacks. Order a spritz, a glass of wine or a non-alcoholic alternative and simply watch the world go by.

This is the time to do absolutely nothing.

After a day of walking, swimming and exploring, sitting by the water with a drink in your hand may be the most memorable part of the entire trip.

Before dinner, take another walk around the village.

You will notice how different Portofino looks in the evening.

The day-trippers have started to leave, the harbour becomes quieter and the village feels more intimate. The colourful façades glow under the evening light, while restaurant terraces begin filling with diners.

Walk along the waterfront and then climb a little way up the surrounding streets for a different perspective.

This is also the perfect time for photographs. The warm evening light creates a softer, more atmospheric version of the Portofino seen in the postcards.

But don't spend the entire evening behind your camera.

Put it away for a while.

Some places are better remembered than photographed.

For your final meal, choose somewhere where you can sit outside and enjoy the evening atmosphere.

Italian dinner is rarely something to rush, and in Portofino there is even less reason to do so.

Begin with something local, perhaps seafood or a simple Ligurian starter. Follow it with pasta, fish or another regional speciality, accompanied by a glass of Ligurian wine.

If you have room afterwards, order dessert and coffee.

The harbour at night has a completely different personality. During the day it can feel glamorous and busy; after dark, the lights reflected in the water create something much quieter and more romantic.

Sit for a while after dinner.

There is nowhere you need to be.

Before calling it a night, take one final walk.

Portofino is remarkably atmospheric after dark. The cafés and restaurants glow along the waterfront, the boats are illuminated and the surrounding hills disappear into the darkness.

The same harbour that felt lively in the morning now feels almost cinematic.

Find a quiet spot and look back across the water.

In a single day, you have seen Portofino from almost every perspective: from the harbour, from the hills, from the sea and from the shoreline.

And that is the secret to visiting such a small destination.

You do not need to see everything.

You simply need to experience it at different times of day.

Portofino can easily be visited as a day trip, but staying overnight gives you something that many visitors never experience: the village without the crowds.

If your schedule allows, spend the night.

Wake up early the following morning and walk down to the harbour before the first visitors arrive. You may find yourself standing in almost complete silence, looking at the same colourful buildings that were surrounded by people only a few hours earlier.

That contrast is what makes an overnight stay worthwhile.

Portofino is undoubtedly glamorous. The yachts, boutiques and waterfront restaurants are part of its identity. But beneath the luxury is a much simpler experience — one built around the sea, the landscape, good food and the pleasure of taking your time.

Wear comfortable shoes. Portofino may be tiny, but it is surrounded by steep hills, steps and walking trails.

Arrive early. The village becomes much busier from late morning onwards, particularly during the summer months.

Carry water. Walking in the Ligurian heat can be tiring, especially if you climb towards the castle and surrounding trails.

Book dinner in advance. Restaurants are limited, and popular places can fill up quickly during high season.

Consider travelling by boat. Approaching Portofino from the sea is one of the most memorable ways to arrive.

Don't over-plan. You can see the main sights relatively quickly. Leave time simply to sit by the harbour, swim or enjoy an aperitivo.

Stay overnight if possible. The atmosphere changes dramatically once the day-trippers have gone.